Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition

Although the majority of people in Goa are Hindu, the presence of Christians is much more obvious. There are large churches and crosses all over -- testament to the hundreds of years of Portuguese occupation here.

During the Inquisition, most of the Hindu temples in Goa were wiped out and the people forced to convert to Catholicism. When people wanted to save their Hindu idols, they took them outside the Portuguese territory to Ponda, a forested area to the East. We take a trip there to visit two temples, the Shri Mangesh and the Shantadurga...they are quite similar in appearance, and completely unlike any temples we have seen elsewhere in India.

This is the Shantadurga temple, dedicated to an incarnation of Parvati, Shiva's wife. Except for the domed tower, it looks like something out of the Sound of Music.


The Shri Mangesh temple was built in the 1560's to hold a Shiva Lingam idol that was rescued from Old Goa and brought here -- not only does the outside resemble church architecture, but the inside is filled with stained glass and dozens of chandeliers. Other than that, it functions as other temples do, with people queing up to pass the idol and take a bit of holy water and ash from the priests. In a side hallway, priests are sitting and reading texts outloud, and others are performing rituals, as shown in this video.

We were at the Shri Mangesh at the same time as a few school groups, and as an American teenager, Tenzin caused quite a stir. Karma, too, was a popular prop.

People were waiting in line to get their picture taken with the kids.

In the temple yard, the chariots sit waiting for a festival, when they will carry the deity through the streets.


Ponda is also the site of the oldest mosque in Goa, which seems to be a much less-visited site on the tourist trail. It was also built in 1560 -- the same time as the temples in the area.

The mosque is a tiny white building, without any visible minarets, which is unusual. In front of the mosque is the ritual pool, where several imposingly large fish are swimming.

When we arrive, the mosque is locked, but for a donation of 80 rupees, the attendant opens it. Tenzin and Mark go inside, but the Jen and the girls are not permitted -- and Kobi stays out too.

Inside the mosque, small rugs cover the floor where the men kneel and pray.

This mosque is still in use for prayers, 5 times a day, and men are beginning to gather as we head back to Panjim.

The sign at the mosque.