Kobi makes friends with Cosmo, their 4-year old son, and they all play at the pool for a few hours. Kobi, of course, falls in love with all of their dogs. Meanwhile, Mark and Jen walk the gardens.
After noon, we again realize that we’ve mis-timed the Italian siesta and its affect on open hours – if you want anything to eat between about 1 and 7 pm, the only places that are open (including grocery stores) are the bar and snack shops that sell cold pizza and panini. So we drive off to the town of Siena, about an hour-and-a-half away, which the kids have read about in the Stravaganza series. The center square is a giant open shell-shaped plaza where the Palio is held twice each summer. It’s a horse race – the winner gets bragging rights for their neighborhood, and each area has its own mascot – such as the frog. Today it is blazingly hot and we head off for the tiny medieval side streets, where we find shade, a nice slice pizzeria and an internet cafĂ© – increasingly a necessity for teenage Tenzin.
It seems like every town in Tuscany has one of these ancient town centers, where the cars are not allowed to drive unless you live there – the streets are sometimes even too small for motorcycles. The wayfinding signs in each town point to the “Centro” with a bullseye graphic, self-explanatory. Although America never had such civic antiquity, it does make me wonder if it could have survived since we can’t even manage to protect the buildings and streetscapes – just a few hundred years old – that we have inherited in New England. Was it appreciation for the past or just lack of development that saved these old European town centers? Certainly, they are thriving now. We’ve seen some filled with tourists, but we’ve also seen them bustling with local industry – they aren’t just a photo op.
We also like to see how modern life has shaped itself, so we pull into the mega-supermarket in Arezzo. It’s sort of a cross between a whole-foods and a super stop & shop, with a few huge aisles of wine added in. We get a kick out of it.
For dinner we follow the recommendation of Francesca at Villa di Bossi and get a table at the restaurant at Piazza Grande, the main square in Arezzo.
It is a magical meal. The waiters bring treat after treat for the kids, and we take a picture of Maggie’s dessert since it is so spectacular.
No comments:
Post a Comment